There are milestones that mark a before and after in the winemaking history of a region. This year we celebrate the 30th anniversary of a true green miracle: the definitive recovery of the Picapoll variety, the undisputed emblem of the DO Pla de Bages.
Three decades ago, this historic grape was practically on the brink of extinction. It was relegated to a distant memory due to the phylloxera plague and the subsequent industrialization of the countryside, which prioritized more productive international varieties. However, the firm commitment of the local wine community and, most notably, the visionary spirit of the Abadal winery, completely turned the destiny of the region around.
Through an untiring search across ancient farmhouses and old vineyards, the original clones were rescued. The goal was clear: to replant them in the clay and pebble-rich soils of a territory surrounded by Mediterranean forests. That gamble, which many labeled as madness at the time, has become today the identity driver of one of the most unique denominations of origin in the world.
The history of Picapoll is, in essence, a tale of resilience and adaptation. It is a late-ripening grape, thin-skinned and marked by small gray spots or stings (“picades”) —from which it takes its name—. For this reason, it has found its perfect sanctuary in the microclimate of Bages. The thermal contrasts between day and night, combined with the protective influence of the Montserrat mountain, grant it a unique character. Throughout these 30 years, Picapoll has evolved from an almost forgotten variety into a true cult object for sommeliers and wine lovers seeking authenticity and purity in every glass.
Tasting Notes: The Soul of Picapoll in the Glass
When pouring a Picapoll wine, we find ourselves before a variety that stands out for its subtle elegance. Visually, it presents a very clean, pale yellow color with bright, slightly greenish reflections that beautifully evoke its youth and freshness. As you bring the glass closer, the nose transforms into an aromatic stroll through the Bages landscape. In this way, a very delicate symphony unfolds, highlighting notes of ripe white fruit, such as water pear and crisp apple. Right away, these aromas give way to a fascinating balsamic background of fennel, wild thyme, lavender, and protective forest undergrowth.
Once it hits the palate, Picapoll surprises with its magnificent structure. Far from being a light white wine, it offers a velvety, almost unctuous entry thanks to meticulous lees contact. This density is perfectly sustained by a lively and citric acidity that provides an incredible sensation of freshness. Finally, its finish is long and persistent, leaving a slightly bitter and saline memory highly characteristic of its mineral terroir.
Bold Pairings: Beyond the Clichés
On a gastronomic level, we propose combinations that go far beyond traditional seafood clichés to fully exploit its versatility. Picapoll possesses the ideal structure to match rich dishes and complex textures.
- First, we invite you to pair it with a very juicy potato and onion Spanish omelet made with autumn truffle. Here, the wine’s balsamic notes elevate the mushroom’s earthy character in a sublime way.
- Likewise, it serves as an exceptional companion for crispy, boneless grilled pig’s trotters served with a traditional nut picada mince. The reason is simple: the wine cleanses the palate with every single sip without losing an ounce of intensity against the meat.
- If you are looking for an international option, it is the perfect match for Japanese cuisine, especially a salmon tartar with avocado and a touch of soy sauce and yuzu. In this case, the wine embraces the fish’s richness and enhances the dish’s bright citrus details.
The 3 Best Picapoll Wines from Pla de Bages According to Wonderful Wines
To celebrate this 30th anniversary properly, we have selected three jewels from our online store that perfectly express the richness of this variety:
Abadal Picapoll Blanc
The ultimate classic and the pioneer that changed the history of the region. It expresses the purest, freshest, and most varietal side of the grape, with an impeccable lees contact process that delivers volume and distinct identity.
Bernat Blanc de Picapoll Negre
An extraordinary innovation that breaks all conventions. This is a sophisticated blanc de noirs crafted exclusively with Red Picapoll (Picapoll Negre). In this sense, the Oller del Mas winery demonstrates its mastery over the local variety, offering a white wine of immense finesse, hints of wild red berries, and a sublime elegance.
Molt més que Paraules Picapoll
A signature creation born from the hands of Cesc Boronat from Proyectos Sin Etiquetas. This wine stands out for its authenticity and a constant search for terroir purity. As a result, we face a Picapoll boasting a high mineral concentration, vibrant freshness, and an untamed character that captivates from the very first sip.
A Legacy to Live and Share
In conclusion, these 30 years of history remind us that wine is landscape, history, and living culture. The recovery of Picapoll has proven that authenticity always wins the game. For this reason, we invite you to be part of this special celebration right from your home. Discovering Picapoll is, in essence, reconnecting with the winemaking roots of our land.
Furthermore, the best way to understand the magic of this variety is by experiencing it firsthand. We encourage you to walk the paths among the vineyards of DO Pla de Bages and let yourself be captivated by its unique natural environment. Moreover, if you wish to delve into its aromatic spectrum guided by us, our doors are wide open for our enological experiences. Remember that we regularly organize specialized Picapoll tastings at our physical store in Manresa. It will be a true pleasure to toast together and share our passion for this local gem. Cheers and Picapoll!
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